Sofia Coppola and Milena Canonero Reflect on Their Creative Journey
Sofia Coppola and acclaimed costume designer Milena Canonero engaged in a revealing discussion about their long-standing collaboration during Cartier’s annual program at the Venice Film Festival on September 8, 2023. The conversation centered around their artistic partnership, which began decades ago on the set of the musical film The Cotton Club.
Canonero, who has received multiple Academy Awards for her work on films including Barry Lyndon and Marie Antoinette, expressed her delight when Coppola decided to retain much of the original crew after taking over direction of The Cotton Club in 1984. Coppola reminisced, saying, “I met Milena when I was 11 or 12 years old on my father’s film. I spent a lot of time in the costume department because it was always magical.”
This early connection blossomed into a professional relationship that saw Canonero design costumes for Coppola’s The Godfather Part III and later for Marie Antoinette. Canonero recalled their bond, stating, “She wanted to see everything and was often there during the shooting… we clicked right away.”
Creative Synergy in Costume Design
Coppola praised Canonero’s unique approach to costume design, particularly for her first foray into period films. “Her approach is always really unique, and she brought so much style to the film,” Coppola noted. Canonero’s Oscar-winning work on Stanley Kubrick’s Barry Lyndon underscored her suitability for the task.
For Marie Antoinette, the duo chose a vibrant color palette inspired by U.S. designer Marc Jacobs, who had created a collection based on the hues of macarons. Canonero elaborated, “We decided to make our own costumes, and not rent them… Sofia came to visit and arrived with an enormous box of macarons. In a very gentle way, she did not say that it was going to be the palette, but rather, ‘I really like these colors.’”
The collaboration resulted in costumes that complemented the film’s aesthetic, with Canonero focusing on a range of colors that moved from pastel to dark tones. “I had the whole palette in front of me, and it was a good idea,” she remarked.
Enduring Legacy and Audience Reception
Upon its premiere at the Cannes Film Festival in 2006, Marie Antoinette received mixed reviews and struggled at the box office. Coppola later referred to it as “a flop,” yet the film has gained a dedicated following among younger audiences. The applause during the Venice conversation indicated its lasting impact, with attendees excitedly capturing moments of Coppola and Canonero on stage.
In addition to discussing their past collaborations, Coppola revealed plans for a restoration of Marie Antoinette. The conversation also included a segment highlighting Canonero’s work in Barry Lyndon, where a memorable scene featuring Ryan O’Neal was showcased.
When asked about her favorite Coppola works, Canonero selected a scene from The Virgin Suicides, praising it for its exploration of youth and the complexities of growing up. “This movie is a fantastic movie forever, it’s a classic,” she stated.
The discussions at the Venice Film Festival continue, featuring notable dialogues between various filmmakers and their collaborators, further enriching the festival’s exploration of cinema’s art and craft.
