Business
Renowned L.A. Restaurant Horses Closes Indefinitely Amid Scandal
The celebrated restaurant Horses in West Hollywood has closed indefinitely, leaving many guests with canceled reservations and raising questions about its future. This decision comes shortly after the establishment was embroiled in controversy related to the divorce of its co-owners, which included serious allegations of animal abuse and domestic violence. The closure, announced at the end of December 2023, cited necessary building maintenance as the reason.
Customers who had planned to dine at Horses for late December or early January received notifications cancelling their reservations. According to the text message from the restaurant staff, the decision to close was made due to “unexpected structural issues” caused by heavy rainfall. The message emphasized the priority of safety for both guests and staff, stating, “We’ve made the difficult decision to close for service tomorrow out of an abundance of caution.” The message concluded with a commitment to inform guests once a reopening date is confirmed.
Executive chef Brittany Ha confirmed the closure to the Los Angeles Times, stating that while reopening remains a goal, “nothing is for certain yet.”
Horses’ Impact on L.A. Dining Scene
Since its launch in September 2021, Horses became a significant player in the L.A. dining landscape, attracting a stylish clientele with its seasonal California cuisine infused with European influences. Bill Addison, a food critic for the Los Angeles Times, described it as “a new modern L.A. institution” and highlighted it as “the city’s most exhilarating new dining experience in the last year.” Additionally, the restaurant earned recognition in the prestigious Michelin Guide and maintained a long waitlist for reservations, even drawing celebrity patrons.
The restaurant’s unique co-chef system featured four chefs, including founding members Liz Johnson and Will Aghajanian. However, their divorce, which unfolded publicly, brought significant scrutiny. The proceedings included allegations from Johnson of repeated assaults and claims of animal cruelty against their family pets by Aghajanian, who has labeled these accusations as “false allegations.”
Despite the turmoil surrounding its founders, Horses continued to attract customers through December 2023. Aghajanian departed the restaurant in late 2022, while Johnson remained until shifting focus to a New York City venture that has since closed. Ha, along with fellow co-chef Lee Pallerino, took over the kitchen, continuing to serve popular dishes like the endive Caesar and signature burger, while also introducing new items to the menu.
Uncertain Future and Local Reactions
The abrupt closure has left many in the community questioning whether Horses will reopen. Ha has not publicly elaborated on the reasons for the closure but indicated to local publication L.A. Taco that it was “due to protect staff from further damage.” Reports from multiple staff members suggest uncertainty about the restaurant’s future operations.
Horses’ closure adds to a troubling trend in the restaurant industry, which has seen over 100 major restaurant closures in Los Angeles throughout the past year. As the culinary landscape continues to evolve, the fate of Horses remains a poignant reminder of the challenges facing both businesses and their leaders amidst personal and professional turmoil.
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